This trick came in handy for me as I had over-oiled my D10, and it would not run correctly, so I needed to clean all the old oil out, and put in some new oil. This trick can help if you, like me, over-oiled it, or if the old oil is solidifying and bogging down your engine.


First things first, You'll need some needle nose pliers, toilet paper, a small  container, some 3 in 1 household oil, and a set of jewelers screwdrivers. One part I almost lost it a small washer between the slip eccentric disc and connecting rod counterweight. In case that was confusing, I'll show you where it goes later. Now, we are assuming that you have taken the boiler, firebox, and burner slide off. Before you start, It is a Good idea to start on a second-hand, tatty steam engine your first time. I got mine off of ebay, no labels, not too much good paint, damaged boiler, so it is a good candidate to be my first steam engine. OK, so now, some pre-dissasembly tips. #1 after every nut, bolt, screw, and other small bits and pieces come off your engine PUT IT WHERE YOU WON'T LOSE IT!!!!!!!!! Really, no matter what you are working on, put away all fasteners. You don't want to learn this the hard way, I did, And if you don't do this, you won't realize how important it is until you lose something. (Putting a laptop back together minus 3 screws and a power jack doesn't work too well.)#2 wipe off each nut, bolt, and screw after it comes off. You don't want to put dirty oil back into the engine.



 Step 1

 Use your pliers to remove the nut on the upper left, and you can use your screwdriver on the others, the reason you can't just undo the screw on top is because there is more than one nut on one bolt. So for now just remove these four nuts, And save the three bolts that come out. (If 4 bolts come out, you either don' t have a wilesco D10, (contact us for confirmation) or you have a big problem on your hands.)



 Step 2

Now, carefully tilt and lift up the cylinder assembly . As you can see, the fourth screw for the entire assembly is also the fourth screw for the cylinder base. Again, use your pliers on the 3 visible nuts, and put them away where you won't loose them! Now, if you are worried about damaging anything, skip to step 4, go back and do step 3, then go ahead to step 5.



 Step 3
 Step 4

With your pliers, remove the bolt on the back of the cylinder cover cap. Grasp it tightly so you don't strip it. Once the bolt is off, pull the cap off. Now pull the cover back, squeezing it slightly because once it comes off of the forward base it will pop open. Set all of these aside, being careful with the paint.



Step 5

Remove this screw while holding the bolt on the back. Once off, wipe off the nut, bolt, connecting rod, and piston rod.



 Step 6

With the main joint removed, unscrew the bolt on the other side. Mine didn't have a nut here, but I don't think it needs one.



Step 7

Remove the rod on the right, if it doesn't come out,  try jiggling it. Be prepared for a lot of oil.  Once it is out, you really need to wipe it off. I also took a que-tip and pulled off some cotton, then put it through that hole to clean out eccess oil.



Step 8

Remove these bolts. You can use your pliers, or your screwdriver. I like the screwdriver better. Once that's done, gently pull the tray down. (you might loose some paint directly over where the bolts were, this is out of sight, so it's no big deal)



Step 9

Wipe all of the dirty black oil (if it's clear, you're fine) on the tray, the bottom of the stand, and the steam pipe. I think this is where you can tell if you have a D10 or a D9, if the steam pipe is permanently attatched you have a D10, if not (I don't exactly know the discerning difference) you have a D9.)



Step 10

 Now remove the two screws in the background, at the bottom of the stand. Once you pull the stand off of the cylinder, wipe off the top of the stand and the bottom of the cylinder. (see all of the dirty oil in the below photo? that's what we're trying to fix.)



Step 11

Remove ths screw connecting the connecting rod to the slip-eccentric counterweight disc.  Once it comes off, you can pull off that spacer, and wipe everything off.



Step 12

Now, firmly grasp the flywheel, and the counterweight disc. Either turn the disc left, or the flywheel right to unscrew the disc.

with the counterweight disc removed, there should be a washer on the main axle, put that aside, wipe it off, and remove the valve rod, wiping it all off. Here is another chance to figure out if you have a D9 or a D10. A D9 has removable flywheel brackets, which makes it easier to wipe off the entire flywheel axle, and bracket. This would be step 12 1/2, and if you do have a D9, I would definitely recommend this.


Step 13

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